A Welshman in paradise

Welshman Père Michel Hayes has lived in Saint-Tropez for 14 years and is the parish priest of Notre Dame de l'Assomption

It’s clear talking to Michel Hayes, born 70 years ago in Cardiff and parish priest at Notre Dame de l’Assomption in Saint-Tropez, that the Welshman is a history lover.

It therefore goes without saying that Père Michel demonstrates great enthusiasm and knowledge when explaining the famous village’s historical background. “There was already a Christian presence here at that time - although it wasn’t called Saint-Tropez until the 4th century,” he continues. “That’s quite remarkable in itself - that a place could change its name in around 300 years. Imagine today if you wanted to change the name of Le Plan de la Tour,” he laughs. “It would be impossible!”

Behind the stars

Thanks to the local people’s devotion to this Christian martyr, the place became known as Saint Torpes, the Latin for Tropez, explains Père Michel. “I tell this story because as hard as I try, in the 14 years I’ve been here it’s difficult to convince people that there’s more to Saint-Tropez than film stars, ladies walking round half or completely naked and everybody throwing champagne over each other.”

So what is a Saint-Tropez Christmas like?

There’s a great tradition of decorating the village: the port is always beautifully illuminated, with a big Christmas tree beside Café Sénéquier. Plus there’s an open-air skating rink installed on the Place des Lices car park, which is always a great success in spite of the loss of parking places.

The Italian connection

Many second home owners come to enjoy the mild weather and attend the church services. “From Christmas to the 2nd of January, there’s a great influx from Italy so there’s almost an Italian flavour which is rather fun,” he says. The Father points out that it is quite astonishing to see people in restaurants wearing bow ties and dinner jackets and ladies in long dresses “It’s something not seen here the rest of the year. It is that lovely side of Italian culture where people dress up for a special occasion and go out to have a nice dinner somewhere.”

On Christmas Eve at 5pm, the church is overwhelmed by “literally hundreds of children” with parents and grandparents who come for the children’s Mass. “There’s a marvellous, relaxed atmosphere. I used to tell people that there were so many children they were hanging from the chandeliers. And it’s true - up to the point that we don’t have any chandeliers. They’re all over the place, sitting on steps, on the floor; it’s great fun.”

Enter Father Christmas

At 6.30pm “all the children in creation it seems, assemble on the port to receive Father Christmas who arrives on an iceberg. It’s quite spectacular!” he laughs before explaining that Santa greets everyone and then gets into a little train, which the children run after to receive their presents: “It’s a huge success!”

A very traditional eve

The Provençal Réveillon starts at 11.30pm with readings, music, songs sung in Provençal - they have a strong traditional group in Saint Tropez called the Rampèu -followed by Midnight Mass. “People dress in Provençal costumes, it is a very beautiful Midnight Mass and is well attended, even when it rains.”

Père Michel particularly enjoys the 10.30am Mass on Christmas Day. “It’s always lovely at that moment when you see the church full again for the third time in less than 12 hours.”

“I love my job,” concludes Père Michel. “I’m so fortunate to be here. I’ve always been happy wherever I’ve been.”  

CR