Know your onions

The Cevennes onion is particularly prized for its delicate flavour, so much so that it is, at present, the only onion variety to have gained the privilege of AOP status (appellation d'origine protégé.) This, if you're not yet aware, is currently replacing the old French AOC (appellation d'origine contrôlée) system. The AOP has been introduced by the EU to harmonise quality claims across all its member countries.

Since last May ex-AOC producers of wines, Lentils de Puy, various cheeses, poulet de Bresse, and Cevennes onions have been moving over to the new AOP badge. Although onions usually form a backdrop to a dish, the much-prized flavour of the doux-de-Cevennes is often used as the star ingredient - stuffed with a herby farce, or simmering in a rich, thick soup and, of course, thickly spread over local Provencal pissaladières.

The following recipe is about as oniony as you can get, and, as it cooks you'll find your kitchen luxuriating in an irrisitably fragrant aroma.

Ingredients

Doux-de-Cevennes Onion Gratin (for 6) 1.5 kg doux-de-Cevennes, onions, 80g piece of Parmesan, grate, 70g salted butter, pepper

Method

Peel the onions and slice them finely. (A tip to avoid tears: put the onions in the fridge a couple of hours before you peel them, and then use a processor to slice.) Melt 50g of your butter in a non-stick pan and gently soften the onions, stirring to stop them sticking, burning or colouring. When they are transparent and tender, and all their water has evaporated (about 25 minutes), take them off the heat and add a good sprinkling of pepper. Preheat your oven to 180°, gas 6.

Choose a gratin dish large enough to spread all the onions out in a one centimetre thick layer - this is important for the desired crispy-succulent texture - and rub it with the rest of the butter. Pour in your onions, sprinkle with parmesan, and cook it for about 20 minutes, until golden and bubbling. Serve it promptly, alongside any meat - like a Sunday roast, or lamb chops. Its sweetness contrasts well with the saltiness of ham, sausages or bacon, and a crisp green salad complements its delicious richness.

JY