20.12.2011 0

Provence & Côte d'Azur: Some local traditions are worth remembering

13 desserts of Christmas

As if the festive season wasn't indulgent enough, there is another excuse to ignore the calorie counter in the south of France in December and it involves 13 desserts. This very old custom represents the Last Supper with Jesus and his apostles.

As if the festive season wasn't indulgent enough, there is another excuse to ignore the calorie counter in the south of France in December and it involves 13 desserts. This very old custom represents the Last Supper with Jesus and his apostles.
Calisson d'Aix is the most awaited of the 13 desserts of Christmas, a Provencal tradition for the 24th December

Thankfully, not all the desserts are filled with sugar - there is fruit, bread and even cheese. It is traditional for children to name all the desserts, which are laid out on Christmas Eve on a table which is covered with three layers of table cloths to represent the Father, Son and Holy Ghost. 

The desserts vary from household to household, but they all generally involve the following ingredients:

- The four beggars: hazelnuts to represent Saint Augustin; almonds for the Carmelite Order; raisins for the Dominican Order; and dry figs for the Franciscan Order.

- Nougat: white to represent good, and dark for evil.

- The 'Olive Oil Plump': a sweetened flat yeast bread made with olive oil, to be broken and eaten as Jesus did at the last supper. It can be accompanied by French cheeses.

- Winter Melon

- Candied lemon

- Pears and Apples

- Pain d'epice: gingerbread

- Prunes

- Dates: stuffed with marzipan

- Yule logs: known as the Bûche de Noël is a newer tradition representing the burning of a log by the oldest person in the household for blessings. 

- Fresh oranges: representing wealth in the coming year

- Quince jelly

- Grapes

- Calisson d'Aix: created from a mixture of almonds, melons and fruit syrup, shaped like a leaf or boat, and covered with royal icing. This is probably the most popular of the 13 desserts. As a modern take on this tradition, some 'foodies' are starting to create 13 exciting desserts from these core ingredients, though you would really have to set your calorie counter aside for that interpretation.

Cassandra Tanti

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