Cooking like a star

A pro at work.

Christian Plumail is the face of Michelin star cooking in Nice. He is quite the juggler too, hosting his own daily morning radio programme on France Bleu Azur, competing in Iron Man, conducting cooking classes, and managing to lead every single service at his beloved l'Univers on blvd Jean Jaurès.

So it comes as no surprise when the Nice-born chef admits he is most happy when he is busy: "The only problem I have in my life is not enough time," he laughs. However, what is nicely surprising is that despite his popularity and thirst for more, Christian refuses to expand his portfolio.

"I have had many opportunities offered to open other restaurants, but for me one is enough. It is important to be in the kitchen for every service." And it wouldn't be l'Univers if Christian wasn't there to greet his customers each day.  
By his side are two sous chefs who have been there for 10 years, and a pastry chef, dedicated for 12 years. And once you meet their boss, you can understand the loyalty.

Christian exudes a certain charm and enthusiasm that you wouldn't expect from a Michelin star chef; there doesn't appear to be one egotistical bone in his body. "Throughout the world, chefs are revered. No, we have to keep our feet on the ground, we have no more value than a painter, a carpenter."

"It is very important for a chef to get a Michelin star, it's like an ordination for a chef. But the best thing is to keep the star. What is most important is the customer. I say to all my staff, I am not the boss, the customer is your boss."

Keeping it local

L'Univers has gained a reputation for two things: it was one of the very first fine-dining restaurants in the city to offer reasonably priced lunch menus (22 euros), and Christian's undying passion for Provencal cuisine, Nicois style. His menu changes every month, with only a handful of dishes on offer.

"Before creating my new menu, I choose 10 local vegetables, four to five meat products, four to six fruits, and that's it. All local. For me, it is very important to use local food, and I know the markets very well." The dishes he creates are artistic, tasteful, and sophisticated. But they are not particularly complicated, and Christian assures that anyone can do it. "If you know the technique, if you have some ideas, and more importantly if you love food, you can make nice things."

If you still lack the confidence, then on the first and third Saturdays of each month, Christian takes a group of between 10 and 14 people to the market to buy fresh local produce and returns to his kitchen at l'Univers to show them how to cook it, creating an apetiser, a main dish, and a dessert. And like his famous lunches, it's not expensive (80 euros).

It’s exciting to meet someone like Christian, who shows that really anyone can make Michelin star food, you just have to believe in yourself, and your ingredients.

Cassandra Tanti