Drum rolls and fanfare

The capitaine de ville (right) receives the pique, symbol of the power of command, from the mayor. 300 tonnes of gunpowder are used over the three days of the festival

Then, as now, the residents form a close community and are very proud of their forefathers and the history of the city.

Serge Astézan greeted us at his Oustau on a sunny spring day in April. The house of the Amis de la Bravade is located in a narrow lane between the Town Hall and the church. The Cepoun is here every day to represent the residents of Saint-Tropez. He is currently preparing for one of the most important events: la Bravade.

Religious & military festival

"La Bravade has both a religious and military background," says Serge Astézan. Every year from 16th to 18th May the Bravade festival celebrates the courage of the Tropezians, who over the centuries have been forced to defend themselves against pirates, Saracens and other assailants.

"The port had an important role on the Mediterranean coast at the time with its formidable merchant fleet and strategically favourable position," adds the Cepoun.

Since the city's rulers were frequently absent, since 1558 a "capitaine de ville" has been elected every year to lead the men who have defended Saint-Tropez.

"The city therefore won the right to maintain its own 'army' in the Kingdom of France until the reign of King Ludwig XIV, who brought this to an end.

Since then the residents of Saint-Tropez have used the Bravade festival not only to celebrate the anniversary of Saint Torpes, who gave the city its name (see box), but have also turned it into an unofficial celebration of their home guard," says Astézan mischievously.

Thus from 1944 the Bravade has been under the supervision of the Cepoun.

The role of the Cepoun

It's said in Saint-Tropez that the town has two rulers: the mayor as the political leader and the Cepoun as the guardian of tradition as well as the chairman of the association of the Amis de la Bravade, to which most Tropezians belong.

Louis Marius Sanmartin set up the association in 1921 and was named the first Cepoun - a lifelong appointment - in 1944. Marius Astézan, the father of the current incumbent, became the Cepoun in 1968 and served for 41 years.Serge Astézan prepared himself for the role for years, before being named the third Cepoun in 2009.

After working very closely with the mayor for 15 years, he did not stand for election in 2008. "The two offices should not be combined with one another," explains the long-established Tropezian.

Who can become a Brava-deur?

To participate in the Bravade is an honour and a privilege that is reserved for the original Tropezians.

"This includes around 800 families," explains Astézan. First priority is given to the children and grandchildren of the Bravadeurs when they reach full age, followed by children between the ages of four and 13 if there are spaces available.

For reasons of safety, the number of participants in the procession is limited to 190 men and around 120 children. Once a person has been accepted into the Corps, they remain a member for the rest of their life. Tropezians who live elsewhere return home for the Bravade.

"Ad Usque fidelis - faithful to the end," is the motto of the Bravadeurs that is passed down from generation to generation.

 "The sincerity and belief of the participants is of primary importance. For us, the Bravade is not a festival but an important religious and military tradition. We don't celebrate until afterwards," confirms Astézan. 

Three emotional days

The festival to honour the patron saint begins on 16th May with artillery gun salutes and serenades to the ruling bodies, followed by a consecration of weapons and a procession through the city.

Citizens from Pisa carry the bust of the martyr.

On the 17th May, rifle shots thunder over the square and drum rolls resound in the streets.

The revellers make a pilgrimage lasting several hours to the Chapel of St. Anne, where the relics of the patron saint are preserved.

On 18th May the festivities end with a mass and a final picnic. Then normal life slowly returns to Saint-Tropez. 

Saint Torpes

There is a legend about the saint who gave the Mediterranean city its name.

According to the legend, the Roman Emperor Nero ordered the beheading of Caïus Silvius Torpetius on 29th April 68 AD because the officer from Pisa did not denounce his Christian be-liefs even after being tor-tured.

The corpse was thrown into an old boat along with a dog and a rooster.

The current of the Arno carried the boat out to the open sea, and it finally came to shore in Saint-Tropez on 17th May 68.

The head of the martyr is worshipped to this day in Pisa cathedral.

Silke Seehars/Anne Morris